#1 Dragon Food Cart Village

I think it is probably appropriate to write in my first Japan post about the “Ichi-Ryu Yatai Mura”.  I have been told that the translation of this is “#1 Dragon Food Cart Village”.  So what is this place?  Well simply put, it is a restaurant, but it really is something much more than that.  Having been to many very nice restaurants in Japan during my travels, I stumbled upon this place during a Sunday morning walk with Mr. N (an American friend) during a trip in the late 1990’s.  It is in a residential area of Kita-Shinagawa, about a 10 minute walk from the large Shinagawa JR station.  You would likely not ever find it, unless you knew where you were going.  This is the kind of place that I seek out.  I think both Mr. N and I were drawn to the very cool neon signage out front (like moths to a flame), which included a glass of Sapporo beer.  It was not open at the early morning hour of our walk, so since Mr. N. was on his way back home that afternoon, I promised to visit the place later that day, and provide him with a complete report.  

On this particular Sunday, I decided I wanted to more fully explore Tokyo. So later on in the morning I hopped on the Yamanote Line for Harajuku, so I could walk around this fashionable district (along with Aoyama).  The plan was to then walk from there back to Shinagawa, and back to this restaurant for a thirst quencher and a meal.  For those who know Tokyo geography, walking from Harajuku to Shinagawa is no walk around the block.  It is a multi-hour trek.  However, the only real way to see a city is on foot, so I headed off.  After seeing the sights in Harajuku, which included a trip to a 5 story toy store (whose name now escapes me but it is relatively famous) for some purchases for my then 3 young boys, I grabbed a quick lunch and headed off, map (a very good one) in hand.  A few hours later I dragged my tired body to the front door of the Yatai mura, desperately needing refreshments.   There was only one problem.  The door was locked!!!  I pressed my face up against the glass and peered inside.  There were many workers walking about inside so I could not figure out why I could not open the door.  I knocked on the glass, quietly at first.  Nothing.  I knocked again, this time a little harder.  Nothing.  Surely they heard me I thought, and I felt they saw me as well.  Maybe this place doesn’t serve Gaijin I thought.  Could that be possible in modern day Japan?  This was a very local place after all.  Then I gave the door one final hard knock.  At last, a gentleman approached the door appearing a bit annoyed.  My troubles are over I thought, as my dry throat was thanking me for my persistence.  The man unlocked the door and proceeded to throw a barrage of Japanese at me, none of which of course I understood.  After he finished, I looked at him and delivered my best Japanese right back  – “biru onegaishimasu!”  He looked puzzled and again spoke to me in Japanese.  I repeated my desperate request a second time.  Looking frustrated, he motioned for me to wait and he went inside and talked to some other members of the staff.  Finally he came back outside, and with a sweep of the arm, invited me inside.  He took me to a table (strange no one else was in here I thought to myself , maybe this place isn’t any good?) and pointed to the seat – a large plastic bucket with a foam top, at which time I sat down.   It was readily apparent that no one on the staff of this place spoke any English.  This was ok with me, as it added to the charm.  A real local place I thought.  Real Japan.  Minutes later he returned, with perhaps the most welcome sight of the day, a beautifully poured mug of “nama biru”.  After downing two of these to satisfy my immediate need (or was it three?), I paid my bill, and vowed to return later for dinner (which I did I might add – by myself).    It was not until years later that I found out what the problem was on that fateful initial trip to this place.  You see the Yatai-mura does not open until 5:00 p.m. on Sunday night.  My long walk placed me at their front door at 4:00 p.m.  They did me a huge favor by letting me in the place.  I think they felt sorry for me, or else maybe they didn’t think I would go away!!!  My love affair with this wonderful establishment had begun!  I have repaid the Yatai mura for this incredible gesture of kindness with my unending loyalty.  Not only have I returned here on almost all of my subsequent visits, but I have brought many of my Japanese friends to this place.  They have all found it to be very unique and enjoyable.  I will fill you in later in a separate post on what exactly this Yatai-mura is, and why it is so special.