My Tokyo "Cheers" Bar(s) - Hoju and Tampopo

In the U.S. there was a very famous television show called “Cheers” which was about a local bar in Boston where “everybody knows your name” as their slogan went.  Everyone (if they are lucky) has their own “local bar” I think, particularly in the U.K.  For me, I have settled on a couple of tiny places in Kita-Shinagawa (when I visit Tokyo) that are comfortable, casual and friendly.  The first is Hoju, a very small upstairs joint located just off the famous “Tokaido Road”.  It has a distinctly western feel (serves Miller on draft I think!!!), which includes a pool table and three electronic dart boards.  I find the lighting to be very cool, and the overall ambiance of the place is much to my liking.  I will admit it draws a “younger crowd”, but I don’t think they mind (or at least they don’t show it), when I drag my aging Gaijin butt up the narrow stairway (watch your head tall people!!!!) that leads to this hole in the wall place.

For me, this is a nice place to go to have a relaxing drink with friends either at the beginning, or the very end of an evening (I think they stay open to 2 or 4 am which can be very convenient if your stamina is high).  Most places in this local neighborhood close rather early.  I have found their drink pricing to be very reasonable.  I also enjoy getting a game or two in on their pool table, or even their dartboard.  Unlike the “Cheers” bar, the staff does not know my name, as I am not truly a regular customer (yet?).  In addition, I do not think there is much depth to their English, which is of course ok with me.

The other of my “Local” haunts, is a snack/karaoke shop that is just 50 meters or so from Hoju, and it sits right on the Tokaido Road.  It is called “Tampopo”.  I have not seen any sign on the outside of this place, and indeed when we found it many years ago what drew us to it was a small, plugged in lit Asahi Beer sign that they stuck out on the edge of the street.  It was around midnight and the entire street was dark except for this sign.  That fateful night will be described in another special post, as it is significant in more than one way.

What makes Tampopo special is not the décor.  In fact, it is nothing too special.  It is a narrow, relatively small place with a classic diner style counter that seats around 7-8 people and then a foam seat along the wall that could probably accommodate a similar or lesser amount.  No what makes Tampopo special is not the place itself, but instead it is what goes on inside.  For starters the Mama-san and Master are very nice people (no English by the way).  They do know my name, and they are a very friendly and nice couple.  A bit opposites in fact, as the Master is a little on the serious side and the Mama-san really enjoys a good time and will have drinks right along with the customers.  It is a regular crowd (no crowd is not the right word, because on any given night there may only be a couple of people in there – it is always a different experience).  However the people all like to have a drink and sing a song or two, and can usually be very engaging and make most “sessions” an enjoyable experience.  This place usually can have an older crowd, and on a few occasions the sight of an older Japanese man singing a love song to his older Japanese wife seated nearby (or the opposite) can be a truly heartfelt and moving sight (for me anyway).  I have had numerous experiences in Tampopo, and every single one of them has been tremendously enjoyable for me.  I try to visit it on most trips to Japan (not all), and it helps if I can bring along a Japanese speaking friend.  For me, Tampopo is a magical place.