A Very Cool Video of Japan

Hit play on this cool video and then full screen it.  A very relaxing tour around Japan.  Well done!!!  By "Hiokinskywalker".

Nov. 2010 Japan Trip - Post #6: Piano Bar

After sharing a nice meal with friends at Toraji in Shibuya, we decided to head to the infamous "Nonbei Yokocho" (Drinkers Alley) for a couple of cocktails before we called it a night.  I must provide some background on this one of a kind place.  As noted previously in my Blog, I am a big fan of U.S. chef and T.V. personality Anthony Bourdain and his show "No Reservations".  It is where I also first heard about "Toriki".  In his fantastic episode on Tokyo, Bourdain was guided by a local contact to this Piano Bar in Shibuya's Nonbei Yokocho.

This whole Nonbei Yokocho thing (and I believe there is another one in Shinjuku?) deserves further exploration and a separate post of it's own some day.  However, this post will focus on the Piano Bar, which is one bar of about 50 within these two or three tiny alleys which make up this special place.  I must say that Piano Bar itself is quite unique within Shibuya's Nonbei Yokocho.  Most of these places are rather simple, plain, tiny, inexpensive sitting bars where Japan's salarymen (and ladies :-) ) can go to relax for some drinks.  However, while the Piano Bar is certainly tiny, that is where all similarities end.  It is a minuscule two story box of a bar.  The bottom floor can seat maybe three, while the unbelievably narrow and steep staircase leads to a second deck that could accommodate very tightly maybe eight people.  There is indeed a piano on the first floor, and the decor of the place is certainly "interesting" to say the least.  Perhaps pictures are the only way to describe it.

There is not a single place on any wall or ceiling of both floors that is not covered with some sort of "decoration".  And the decorations are quite bizarre.

The drinks are a bit on the expensive side, and there is a cover charge per person, but hey, they have to pay for these decorations somehow, and the drinks are of a high quality and tastefully prepared and served.

On this particular night I led our group to his bar from the Korean BBQ place.  When we turned the corner to go into this "alley", there was a large group of extremely intoxicated young Japanese people stumbling about.  I think one of them was getting sick at the time as well.  It was quite a sight, and caused me to second guess my choice of where I was taking our group and my wife.  However, we walked right through this gauntlet of "late Saturday night Tokyo debauchery" to our destination without any trouble.  I am glad we did.

The Piano Bar is a really cool, sophisticated place that is certainly unique compared to its surroundings.  It is worth a visit I think.  Go there to have good, deep and unhurried conversation with friends or your "better half".  It is a very small slice of what makes up a truly great city.

After leaving Nonbeiyokucho we walked to the Shibuya Station and crossed the street at the famous "Hatchiko Crossing", which is sometimes referred to as the Times Square of Tokyo.  This is yet another incredible site that must be seen in this fascinating metropolis.

This is near where the statue of the famous Japanese dog "Hathciko" is.  If you are unfamiliar with this famous Akita dog I suggest you Google him.  I have heard this long dead Japanese canine is currently sitting stuffed in a Tokyo museum.  A likely destination for a future trip.

An Idea, A Plan, and Execution - "Tateishi"

I have a Japanese friend named Ken.  He is a very special friend, an interesting friend.  He sees things that many people don't see.  Things that I like.  We share a love of simple, rustic yet flavorful food, as well as historical old places.  It was because of this commonality that Ken informed me from his current residence in Singapore that I must try a couple of restaurants in an area of Tokyo called Tateishi.  Specifically he said they had a great restaurant that specializes in guts called Uchida.  So on a weekend day a couple of years back, I headed out with a couple of close friends who shared the same desire to see and taste this special place.

But there is more to the story than just this.  Before I headed off to Japan on this specific business trip, one of my Tokyo co-workers got wind of the fact that I was planning a possible trip to Tateishi.  So this incredibly nice person, who is a good friend, put together a special intelligence file for me which showed up in my Inbox, which would be my guide.  First, he showed me how to get there, which is not quite straightforward as it involves using a non-JR Line train (not too difficult of course, but not as easy as JR).  Here are shots of what he sent me.

We made it, but the hour was a bit odd and unfortunately Uchida was closed.  Oh by the way, here was a shot of Uchida's offerings, as sent with the rest of my "Tateishi Package".

Not to worry, this area, which sits in an old industrial type warehouse contained a number of small shops as well as markets.  It is a very interesting and nostalgic place to walk around.  With my handy guide, I knew there were many other options, and I knew exactly where they were, and what they served!!!

 Here is a shot of the main walking alley in this building. 

So after looking into another restaurant that was a no-go because it was too crowded, we ended up at a walk up Sushi Bar for our late lunch (Sakaezushi).  This place had a very nice quality of sushi, which was prepared with incredible skill and speed.  AND, it was cheap!!!  We tried a number of great things which were prepared and delivered to us almost as fast as we could get the order out of our mouths.  Unfortunately I did not take any photos of the inside or outside of this wonderful place which is a shame (I will when I go back!!!).  I do remember one piece of sushi that I tried for the first time here, and surprisingly did not really care for it.  Shirako.  Yep, it was a bit of a challenge even for natto, uni, ikura loving me.  Oh well, maybe it is an acquired taste.  Here is one of the Iron Chef Judges who joined us for this tasting.

We ate it all (not a huge lunch, but rather just a strategically selected one) rather quickly (it is hard not to), paid our bill and then we were on our way.  After checking out the other shops, we headed off down the street to . . . . a Ramen Shop (!) that I believe had been recommended by one of the sushi chefs.  We tucked into the small family owned shop and bellied up to the bar for our fill of noodles.  It was a rather hedonistic lunch when all was said and done.  I probably would have been in better shape had I walked back to Shinagawa.

So I guess you can understand part of the reason why I love Japan so much and feel so lucky to have great friends there.  Not only do I get an incredibly well thought out and detailed map/plan sent to me in advance by someone who cared, but I also get a couple of friends to take the time on their weekend to make the trip with me!  How can I lose?  How can I not have a great time.  It is impossible!!!!

Oh well, another day exploring the beauty of Tokyo with friends.  Thanks to the "Map Maker", my friends who ventured with me, and of course the catalyst of the idea - Ken in Singapore.  What a Wonderful World (again)!

My First Japanese Business Meeting

While I have tried to stay away from the subject of business in this Blog, I thought it would be safe to just share with you some comments and pictures from my first business meeting in Japan.  It was December of 1994, and I had only been with the company 4 months when my manager told me I needed to go to Japan for some customer meetings.  Your first trip to any foreign country is always the most memorable, and I was completely full of enthusiasm as I boarded my Singapore Airlines flight from Los Angeles to Tokyo (What I find ironic is that 17 years and 33 trips to Japan later, I have not used Singapore Airlines since!!  What a pity!!!!).

Anyway, I stayed at the Century Hyatt hotel in Shinjuku upon arrival.  We took the Tohoku Shinkansen up to Sendai, and had the meeting with our customer in our Tagajo factory.  I found the meeting procedure to be quite formal.  Everyone was extremely nice to me, and we had a good meeting.  Here is a shot I took during the meeting (everyone probably wondered why is this guy taking a picture during a meeting???). 

You can see we had a working lunch as during the middle of the meeting each participant was given a bento box meal (which was incredibly good).  At the end of the meeting we took a group photo before heading off to dinner.  Some of you may know a few of the people in this photograph.

What a fantastic experience that first trip to Japan was for me.  My eyes were opened to an absolutely wonderful place, with beautiful people.  For those of you who helped me on this particular trip (and you know who you are), thank you so much for getting me started on this wonderful journey.

Nov. 2010 Japan Trip - Post #5: Korean BBQ

After exploring Enoshima Island in November of 2010, we headed back to Tokyo for dinner and a few late night drinks.  We decided on Shibuya as our destination, as it allowed many opportunities for both.  After some discussion we ended up at a very modern and popular Korean BBQ restaurant called "Toraji" not too far from Shibuya Station.  I am not sure I really understand what the difference is between Korean and Japanese BBQ (Yakiniku).  It seems to me that the Japanese refer to Yakiniku as "Korean" BBQ.  Either way, we had some nice food and nice conversation, and of course Mary struggled with the different cuts of meat which were quite varied.  However, she was a good sport, and loved it!

Korean BBQ is a very fun and interactive way of dining.  I had never experienced it before I went to Japan, which is kind of funny I think.  It opened up to me just how good Korean cuisine really is, and I have been a big fan ever since.

I have been to many excellent Korean BBQ places in Japan.  Across the street and down an alley from the old Hotel Pacific in Shinagawa was one of my first experiences I think.  It was a really nice shop that you would never find unless specifically guided, but I found it curious each time I went to that place that there seemed to be lots of stray cats that roamed around near their front door.  We had great Korean BBQ in Gotanda too which I remember quite well.

Korean BBQ - another great reason why I love Japan!!!  Some day though I do hope for a chance to get to Korea!!!

Great Dinners in Japan: Ichi-Ryu Yatai-Mura

I have had many a great dinner at the Ichi-Ryu Yatai-Mura in Kita-Shinagawa.  It is one of my favorite places to relax with friends in Japan.  Many of the meals I have had there actually stick out in my mind.  However there was one in particular that is tops.  Why was it tops?  Well for one, it was the largest group I have been a part of at this restaurant.  All co-workers, from Japan and the U.S.  Another reason is we sat out on the patio.  The weather was nice (it was in June of 2003), and I believe the inside of the place was full.  No problem, as the Yatai-Mura staff set us up on their deck.

It was really quite an amazing group, many who were making it to this place for the very first time.

It will never be repeated, as unfortunately a number of our senior members have retired from the company.  But for that one night, on a patio on an inlet of Tokyo Bay, it was magic.

Favorite Pictures

Of the multitude of pictures that I have collected through the years visiting Japan, there are two that stick out to me as personal favorites.  The first one I took in December of 2000.  It is a straightforward and simple picture really, taken in the first car of a Yamanote Line train in Tokyo behind the driver.  As you may know, I like trains.  Nowhere in the world where I have been to are trains a more integrated part of society than in Japan.  They are clean, safe, and most importantly (and impressively) on time.  On my second trip to Japan I took the Yamanote Line all the way around one morning to try and see the full scope of Tokyo.  This is something that probably most people would laugh at doing, although I am sure quite a few late night intoxicated Japanese have accomplished this feat unintentionally.

I like this picture for many reasons.  It is the old school train car, which is being phased out by newer, more "electronic" models.  It is a beautiful day, with a clear track ahead, which gives me the sense of a bright future.  The fact that the Yamanote Line runs in a circle means the future has endless possibilities.  The driver looks sharp and shows discipline, which to me is a great representation of the Japanese culture.  I was always amazed when I watched Yamanote Line drivers and how they made a pointing motion to the clock on their dash each time the train came to a full stop at a station.  Right on time again.

The second picture is one that my old school friends will recognize.  It was taken early in the morning on my very first trip to Japan in December of 1994.  This picture is of a special place, but it is made even more special by the fact that today it is gone.  Almost all of the buildings have been leveled, as time has moved on.  In the shot a Japanese man going to work was inadvertently caught in frame when I snapped the picture.  But for me this fact does not detract from the photo, but rather adds to it.  It represents work for me, and therefore is appropriate.  Another beautiful, crisp December morning in Tokyo.

Conne Update!

Apparently Conne is still alive in Oimachi!!! Great job Kenji-san!  The next time I am in town, I plan to stop by and sample his nice food.  If you are interested, he has a web-site that can be found here - www.conne.info/.  Stop by Conne and enjoy Kenji's hospitality.  Tell him you are my friend, and see if he remembers me!!!

Nov. 2010 Trip - Post #4: "Enoshima Island"

Thanks to a good suggestion from a friend, we decided to spend our Saturday afternoon exploring Enoshima Island.  In case you don’t know, Enoshima Island is a small island that sticks out into Sagami Bay, around 1 hour south of Tokyo (by 2 trains).  It is connected to the mainland via two small causeway bridges.  One is for walking, and the other is for cars.  While there are some cars on this island, the majority of the people who visit just walk over the bridge.  In this picture taken from the hill on Enoshima, you can see the two bridges, and all of the people who are walking over.

Once over on the island, there is a walking path that you can take all the way up and over the steep hill in the middle to the rocky shores on the far side.  On that far side, Enoshima is famous for its caves, which you are actually able to walk into.  Over the course of making this walking journey, there are many interesting sights to see such as the following picture.

These cats get looks from just about every visitor that walks by.  Most of the sights along this path are of course geared towards the heavy tourist trade.  There are shops which sell goods and food.  Some are quite simple like this food stand.

Then there are more elaborate full restaurants like this one, that typically specialize in some sort of seafood   All command spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.

Onto the other side of the hill you walk down to the rocky shores.  This is near where the caves are.  Many people walk down over the tide pools, and there are also a few people who fish from down there.

Making the hike over the hill to the caves on the far side and back creates a nice appetite.  While Mary stuck to the safety of tempura shrimp, I took part in something a little more fun!

After the wonderful light snack which included of course some Japanese beer, it became dark so we headed to the top of the hill where there is a lighthouse tower with an observation deck on top.  Here it can be seen with its beautiful illumination.

We took the elevator to the top (you can also use the stairs I believe), and the views of the mainland were quite amazing.

It was a wonderful afternoon spent on Enoshima Island.  It is quite a unique place, and I would recommend it to anyone.  Here is a map of the island.  Basically we followed the red line to the caves and back.

Golf in Japan - Round 1

A Blog about my travels in Japan would not be complete if I did not write about my golf experiences over there. I had always wanted to play golf one day in Japan. I knew the Japanese were very keen on the game, and I wanted to see what differences were apparent between golf in Japan and golf in the U.S.

That day came along in May of 2005 when a number of us went out on a weekend to play the Matsushima Chisan course up near Tagajo. Matsushima Chisan is quite a nice facility. It is a private 36 hole Country Club. One of our coworkers was thankfully a member and arranged for our days play. We had between 10 and 12 players that day, and split into three groups. What I remember most about that round was NOT the golf. No, the course, the play, and most everything associated with the actual golf were very similar to play over here in the U.S. What did stick out to me the most was the LUNCH!!! All foursomes stop in for a 45-60 minute lunch after the 9th hole. It operates with an incredible degree of efficiency. Your sit down at a table. Your order is taken quite quickly. Your food (and drink) is delivered quite quickly and the quality of the lunch was fantastic!!! Then, at precisely the time when you finish, you walk out on to the 10th tee and miraculously your foursome is up to hit and the group ahead is well down the fairway or on the green. Every group must stop in for lunch. There is no jumping ahead of other groups.

The other thing I do remember that was different was that the golf carts at this course seated four golfers (in the U.S. it is almost always two golfers).  Having an entire foursome sitting in one cart was quite strange, but brought about a nice sense of togetherness for your group.

It was a very fun experience playing golf in Japan for the first time.  We did get rained on for a few minutes on one hole during the round.  Just long enough for us to stop in and have a beer at a small on course shelter building.  Thanks to all of my friends who joined us!

Mako Blues Alley June 19th - SOLD OUT!

I have just been informed that Mako-sans upcoming performance at Blues Alley Japan in Meguro is sold out.  I am trying to see if any tickets might be available in case any of my friends are interested in going.  If you are, please let me know!!

Kenji of "Conne"

Since I have just posted about Mako-san who I had met over at Haikara-tei and the Yatai-mura, I thought it would be a good time for a relevant post.  In that previous article, I mentioned the manager of Haikara-tei at the time, a gentleman by the name of Kenji.  As previously written, we became friends with Kenji through our frequenting the enjoyable Haikara-tei during the mid 2000's.  It was a popular, local snack and Karaoke bar that also had a reasonable darts crowd.  I would some day write a post just about this place, but unfortunately I cannot find any pictures (yet) that document it!  They are out there though.  I know it.

So Kenji was always nice to us, and the day came when we found out Kenji had moved on and opened up a place of his own.  It was an Izakaya near Oimachi station called "Conne".  Soon after Kenji started this place up, Mako-san went over and began working with him.  It seemed like a two person operation.

What I did not know at the time was that Kenji was quite an accomplished chef.  Over at Haikara-tei he always seemed to be at the cash register near the door to take care of peoples bills.  No, Kenji could indeed cook, and we enjoyed quite a number of his fantastic dishes over at Conne during the brief two year (approximately) period we frequented his place.  Chicken wings cooked in Coca-Cola and a wonderful Natto salad were two of his great dishes that immediately come to mind.  Here is a picture of Kenji along with Rick from Alabama during one of our meals at Conne.

For some reason I am not sure if Conne is still in operation.  The Izakaya business in Japan, especially near the train stations is very tough business.  I remember when I walked out of Oimachi Station the first time to go to Conne there must have been 15-20 Isakaya's between the station exit and Conne, all along the same road!!!  How do you differentiate?  How do you develop a loyal clientele?  How do you break in from scratch!!!

Kenji is still around somewhere, and one of these days I hope to run into him again.  If I do, I will certainly let you know.