Wednesday, March 21, 2012

John Begg - Shinbashi

Here is the second post on another great little bar in the Shimbashi neighborhood of Tokyo.  We stumbled into this place when I had planned to go to Susie's but found it closed.  John Begg sits right next door, and it's sign is quite a bit more prominent and inviting than Susie's.  I should start off by saying that regrettably I did not take any pictures at John Begg, so I shamelessly clipped these off the internet.  To the Japanese reviewer who took them, I hope you do not mind!
John Begg was a Scotsman from Aberdeen.  He started the New Loughnagar Distillery in the 1845, and as a result of receiving the "Royal Warrant of Appointment" as a supplier to the Queen (Victoria) he changed the name to Royal Loughnagar Distillery.  John Begg passed away in 1880, and the company was later acquired by John Dewar Ltd and Sons in 1916.  Today the company is still going strong as part of the massive holdings of the beverage giant Diageo.

While the origins of John Begg Whiskey are well documented, how this John Begg bar came about in Shinbashi remains a bit of a mystery.  What I can tell you is the place is run by a Mama-san who has been tending to this same establishment for quite a long time (40-50 years?).  It is my understanding that this bar originated in 1949.  My guess is that not much inside has changed since.  It is a much bigger place than Susie's next door, but before you think it must be large, please don't forget you had to turn sideways when you walked into Susie's.  John Begg is small.  A very nice curved wood bar fronts around 6 or so stools along the right side of the room.
To the left is a seating area with three small sections that can seat around 9 at the most.  A few comfortable looking very small couch type pieces along with a few stools.  That's it.  What makes this place so cool is the decor, both behind and on the bar as well as on the walls.  It is tasteful, old, and classy.  There is a very large painting of the Mama-san when she was young.  A very beautiful lady, both then as well as now.
John Begg has many different liquors but seems to specialize in Whiskey.  Begg's brand is of course the "house pour", and I would recommend the 12 year old Royal Loughnagar Single Malt, which was quite tasty.  Two capable and experienced barmen tend very professionally to the drinks.  The service is first rate.  One speaks a little bit of English, which was very helpful (I did not have my Japanese co-workers along for this adventure).  The place had some classic looking coasters seen here.
Go to John Begg if you want to relax and go back in time.  Enjoy the serenity of the place, the nice service, and the fine cocktails.  The craziness of Shinbashi is outside all around you, but within these walls you can escape.  You can enjoy.  There is a Ginza feel here, which is only a few blocks away.
I hope to return to this place with some of my Japanese friends so I can find out more about it from the Mama-san.  Shinbashi, Tokyo and the world needs more places like John Begg.  Search them out before they are gone forever, like Susie's next door.

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